Friday, November 7, 2008

Dunno where I've been

Oh the places I've been, the people I've seen. Good to be back, though. One place I do remember going during my absence is Phoenix. Not sure about the city but at least I got to try what many call the best pizza in the country. Pizzeria Bianco is often credited as kicking off the gourmet pizza craze. I don't know if this is true since I don't usually follow trends in the pizza industry.

Chris Bianco is the celebrated chef and owner. The eatery is set near downtown by the stadium in a small park. The brick building is quaint but clean and has a lot of charm. Parking can be a problem, like any major city, but downtown Phoenix is dead after work hours making it easier. People are surprised at how long I wait to get a table at some of the great restaurants in the world. This is inescapable because many great chef owned restaurants tend to be small. However, the wait at Pizzeria Bianco is beyond ridiculous even for me. First, you have to get there before it opens and stand in line to get on the waiting list. They have only a limited number of seats per night and you have to get on the waiting list before they run out of space. You cannot make reservations or call ahead or order takeout. Once on the list, you have to check-in every hour or they will give away your spot. I got there 15 minutes before they opened (5pm) and was given their last table (10pm). That's right; I waited 5 hours and had to check-in 3 times for pizza.

They serve thin crust pizza which has a surprisingly clean taste for something with cheese. I found the toppings well paired although the crust is slightly too tough and chewy. The chef grows most of what he serves in the restaurant and you can taste individual ingredients coming though. Salads are fresh and small dishes are simple yet savory. However, is it better than Lombardi's in NYC? No. Is it worth the 5 hour wait? What do you think? Bottom line, I don't get what the big deal is. Maybe this place is avant-garde for people who've been eating Pizza Hut but Lombardi's has been making better thin crust for over a hundred years. Lombardi's has been open since 1905 and I've never had to wait more than an hour there for a table.

The service is what you would expect of a place that's chronically packed. The front desk is brisk bordering on rude likely due to having to deal all day with pissed off people waiting for tables. Once you sit down the waiters are friendly although slow. You can wait at their bar next door while your table comes up. Many have speculated the restaurant hasn't expanded and has the check-in policy to keep that bar full. Here are the scores; I follow the Zagat format.

Food: 23
Decor: 20
Service: 15
Cost: $40 + airfare to Phoenix + 5 hours of your life you will never get back

http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/
602-258-8300